Patek Philippe’s New Bejewelled Releases Include a Rainbow Aquanaut Luce Minute Repeater

Ahead of Dubai Watch Week 2023, Patek Philippe has debuted seven new jewellery watches across the sporty Aquanaut and Nautilus collections, including the first-ever Aquanaut Minute Repeater. The demand for high jewellery in the world of horology continues to be on the rise and Patek Philippe joining the bandwagon to present bejewelled versions of two iconic collections further establishes the trend.

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The Aquanaut and the Nautilus led to the brand crafting two special lines endowed with feminine refinements: the Aquanaut Luce (2004) and the Ladies’ Nautilus (relaunched in 2009). Since 2021, these two feminine lines have been expanded to include complicated models, versions with diamonds that employ the “snow-setting” technique and more. These new releases take the momentum forward as they combine Patek Philippe’s mastery of grand complications with Haute Joaillerie. GMT India takes a closer look at the seven new timepieces.

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The Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Ref 5260/355R-001

Crafted in rose gold with a setting of 52 multicoloured baguette-cut sapphires (3.19 ct), 112 baguette-cut diamonds (7.31 ct), and 160 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.72 ct), this brings together Haute Horlogerie, modern casual chic, and Haute Joaillerie all at once.

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The case measures 38.8 mm in diameter and it’s 10.7 mm thick. The contours of the octagonal bezel are highlighted by a double row of baguette-cut gems — in an “invisible-setting” — with an outer row of diamonds and an inner row of multicoloured sapphires. The centre of the dial is paved with diamonds; an hour circle flaunts brilliant-cut diamonds that employ the “snow-setting” technique and 12 multicoloured sapphire hour markers complement the bezel’s gradient of hues. The self-winding movement (Caliber R27) is visible through the sapphire caseback. The timepiece comes with three ultra-resistant composite straps – matte beige (originally fitted), red, and matte white (additional straps) – secured by  patented fold-over clasps in rose gold, set with baguette-cut diamonds.

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The Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Ref 5260/1455R-001

Available exclusively at the Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva, Paris, and London, during the introductory phase, this model (sized exactly as the other reference) is paved throughout with 130 baguette-cut diamonds (8.66 ct) and 779 multicoloured baguette-cut sapphires (45.05 ct). The brand chose to employ the “invisible setting” technique for the dial centre, the bezel and the caseband, as well as the flanks and central links of the bracelet.

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The 12 multicoloured baguette-cut sapphire hour markers add a distinct gleam to the dial; the hour circle in baguette-cut diamonds complements the hour hand, set with three baguette rubies, and a minute hand, lit by five baguette-cut blue sapphires, while the hole in the cannon carrying the hands is set with a brilliant-cut diamond. The rose-gold bracelet has a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp, secured by four independent catches. This model is powered by Caliber R27 as well.

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Nautilus Haute Joaillerie models

The three new Nautilus Haute Joaillerie models in white gold combine 1,500 brilliant-cut diamonds (6.53 ct) with 876 brilliant-cut blue sapphires (6.58 ct, Reference 7118/1451G-001) or brilliant-cut rubies (6.58 ct, Reference 7118/1452G-001) or brilliant-cut emeralds (3.68 ct, Reference 7118/1453G-001), using the “snow-setting” technique.

The bezel, sporting the coloured stones, highlights the iconic design of the Nautilus and diamonds on the outer links contrast with the coloured gems on the inner links to play up the original construction of the bracelet. The white gold dial stands out with its rows of brilliant-cut diamonds, set in the pattern of small waves, typical of the Ladies’ Nautilus collection. The ogival-shaped hour markers in white gold are set with 12 blue sapphires, rubies or emeralds. Alpha-style hour and minute hands are in charcoal grey white gold with a white luminescent coating. There is a charcoal-grey sweep-seconds hand as well.

All three models measure 35.2 mm in width and come equipped with self-winding Caliber 26-330, which is visible through a transparent sapphire caseback. The bracelet has a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp, secured by four independent catches that guarantee optimal comfort.

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Ladies’ Nautilus References 7010R-013 and 7010/1R-013

These two new additions to the the Ladies’ Nautilus line feature two iterations with a bold new purple colourway: the Ladies’ Nautilus Reference 7010R-013, with a purple lacquered dial and a matching strap in a composite material, and the Ladies’ Nautilus Reference 7010/1R-013, with a purple lacquered dial and a bracelet in rose gold.

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The dial — sporting the pattern of small waves, typical of the Ladies’ Nautilus collection — requires 50 fine coats of lacquer, first translucent purple and then colourless, to create its subtle sense of depth. The ogival-shaped hour markers, applied Arabic numerals, and alpha-style hour and minute hands are all in rose gold with a white luminescent coating, contrasting perfectly against the purple background. 

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The iconic porthole-inspired shape is highlighted by the alternating satin-brushed and polished finishes, and the octagonal bezel shines with 46 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.8 ct), set with textbook precision. The ultra-resistant composite strap of Reference 7010R-013, sporting an elegant fabric pattern, is fitted with a fold-over Nautilus clasp in rose gold; Reference 7010/1R-013 has a rose gold bracelet that plays with contrasting finishes.