Patek Philippe Releases Cubitus, its First New Collection in 25 Years
It isn’t every day that Patek Philippe introduces an entirely new collection, especially a new line of elegant sports watches. But here it is! The new Patek Philippe Cubitus range comprises a steel watch (Ref. 5821/1A), a steel-and-gold version (Ref.5821/1AR), and a more complex Instantaneous Grand Date, Day and Moon Phase variant (Ref. 5822P). The newly launched collection is a sequel to the discontinued Nautilus, which was created by Gerald Genta in 1976. For the new Cubitus versions, Patek Philippe has developed a completely original, innovative design wherein the square bezel adopts rounded corners ― in other words, a shape that brings together the square, the circle, and the octagon.
It has been over two decades since the watchmaker last introduced a brand new collection. Making its debut in 1999, Twenty~4 was the brand’s first exclusively feminine watch collection in quartz, which was extended in 2018 through the launch of the Twenty~4 Automatic. The original Twenty~4 model featured an Art Deco-inspired manchette or cuff design. The automatic novelties were powered by Calibre 26-330 S C, a self-winding movement with a minimum 35 hours and maximum 45 hours of power reserve.
The Time-and Date Cubitus 5821/1A and 5821/1AR
The Cubitus 5821/1A is a classic steel-on-steel model. The Cubitus 5821/1AR is the same watch in two materials, steel and gold. Both models have a date window at 3 o’clock. For both, the central case is made of steel, with the 5821/1AR adding 18 ct rose gold to multiple elements ― the bezel and lateral module (a monoblock construction), the crown, and the central polished links of the bracelet. This edition also adds gold touches to its blue dial, with the markers, the date frame, and the hands made of solid 18 ct rose gold.
Comparatively speaking, the full-steel Cubitus 5821/1A is a more classic rendition with an olive green dial that inevitably recalls the farewell edition of the steel Nautilus, Reference 5711/1A-014. It has been matched with white gold hands and markings. The Patek Cubitus's hands are identical in design to those of the Nautilus; the applied markings, while cut and positioned differently due to the curvature of the case, which is replicated on the dial, are executed in the same style as those on a Nautilus. All elements have a luminescent coating and the date disc is white.
Both time-and-date Cubitus 5821 references are powered by the in-house calibre 26-330 S C, the same movement that was incorporated into the 2018 Twenty~4 Automatic collection. This automatic movement has a 21 ct gold central rotor with a Gyromax balance and Spiromax hairsprings on the open caseback. The power reserve ranges from 35 hours to 45 hours. Both references have a 45 mm diameter (from 10 to 4 o’clock); they are 44.5 mm wide from 3 o’clock to 9 o’clock with a crown and 44.9 mm long across the lugs. Ref. 5821/1A is finished on a steel bracelet while Ref. 5821/1AR gets an 18 ct rose gold and steel bracelet. Common to these watches are the lockable size-adjustment system and the patented steel Patek Philippe fold-over clasps.
Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date, Day and Moon Phases Ref. 5822P-001
Besides the two classic time-and-date models, Patek Philippe has also introduced a more complex, more luxurious platinum edition of the Cubitus. Called the Instantaneous Grand Date, Day and Moon Phases Reference 5822P-001, this watch has an off-centred display. It features a new set of complications, including a big date window at 12 o’clock, through two coplanar discs (that is, placed on exactly the same plane).
The coaxial day and moon-phase indications are positioned at 7 o’clock, complemented by a small asymmetric subsidiary seconds counter at 4:30. On the blue sunburst dial, adorned with horizontal relief embossing, legibility is ensured by the applied baton-style hour markers and the rounded baton-style hour and minute hands, all in white gold with a white luminescent coating that looks white in daylight and glows green in the dark. Like all Patek Philippe models in platinum, this timepiece has a baguette-cut diamond, set, for the first time, into the bezel at 6 o’clock. This novelty has a date pusher at 10 o’clock, a day pusher at 8 o’clock, and a moonphase pusher at 4 o’clock. The case dimensions are the same as those of the models mentioned above.
Powering the watch is Caliber 240 PS CI J LU, an ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement with a power reserve ranging from 38 hours to 48 hours. The sapphire caseback displays a unidirectional winding mini-rotor in 22ct gold, engraved with a horizontal decoration. This model is finished on an ultra-resistant composite material strap, embossed with a fabric motif, in navy blue, sporting cream stitching and a platinum Cubitus fold-over clasp.