H. Moser & Cie. Retains the Pioneer Line’s Minimalist Philosophy in the Latest Retrograde Seconds Variant

While the Streamliner has established itself as H. Moser and Cie.'s flagship luxury sports watch since January 2020, the Pioneer has enjoyed its own share of recognition as the brand's sportiest, all-terrain, entry-level model since 2015. The line-up has seen variations over the years, with complications ranging from the Centre Seconds in the first model to a skeletonised Cylindrical Tourbillon. In fact, the collection is organised around three key tenets: it must be tough, have a sturdy case, and ensure 120-metre water resistance. The latest addition to the collection features a retrograde display (Ref. 3250-1200), with a module created by Moser's partner AGENHOR SA that brings to life the new Pioneer Retrograde Seconds.

Jean-Marc Wiederrecht earned his diploma in watchmaking in 1972 and promptly established his own firm. Wiederrecht and his wife Catherine launched AGENHOR in 1996; the company has since registered numerous key patents and partnered with the most well-known watchmakers in the world. The company is now managed by their two sons, Nicolas and Laurent.

The new 42.8 mm solid steel watch from H. Moser & Cie. has a 30-second retrograde counter in a broad arc at 6 o'clock, which is the highlight of the display. The hand, designed like a speedometer, moves along the counter before flashing back to its original position. In addition to the motion of the retrograde hand, the mechanism of the complication is shown on the dial via the double snail cam. At the end of each cycle, the snail, which is in constant touch with the finger, releases the energy accumulated by the hairspring (visible beneath the axis of the second hand) via a stud holder installed on the mainplate. 

The rack, which is also visible under the bridge, correctly aligns the hand on the track and instantly releases the energy. The skeletonised bridge resembles Moser's tourbillon bridges and a two-tone disc underneath the snail indicates whether the watch is in the cycle's first or second 30-second interval. The Midnight Blue fumé dial with a sunburst pattern has a nearly invisible logo sprayed in translucent lacquer at 12 o’clock. There is a screw-down crown at 3 o’clock.

To improve legibility, the prominent faceted hour markers are accompanied by circular lume plots on the outer periphery, while the semi-skeletonised, leaf-shaped hour, minute hands are also treated with Super-LumiNova. Powering the watch is HMC 250 automatic calibre, developed by AGENHOR SA. This movement has a bi-directional pawl winding system, offering a 72-hour power reserve. The movement has the original Straumann® hairspring with anthracite finishings and Moser double stripes, and partially skeletonised bridges. Turning the watch over showcases the domed sapphire crystal and the see-through caseback with an engraved oscillating weight. This timepiece is finished on a hand-stitched alligator leather, rubber or textile strap or a steel bracelet with a steel pin buckle engraved with the H. Moser & Cie. logo.