Dauphine Hands 101: A Guide to This Timeless Watchmaking Element

With retro-themed watches gaining popularity, dauphine hands are certainly in the spotlight. These watch hands resemble alpha hands (elongated triangles) but are faceted. They were designed in the 1940s and remain extremely popular to this day. The bevelling, which creates a unique raised edge running along the middle of the hands, makes them instantly recognisable. So, how did dauphine hands come into being? Read on. 

The History of Dauphine Hands

The 1940s were a watershed moment for wristwatches, combining innovation with utility. The decade also saw the growth of chronographs and multipurpose watches, indicating an increasing need for precision and adaptability. This was the period during which dauphine hands were created. 

There are several theories about the origins of the name, one of which is that it owes its existence to the word, 'dauphin', which was the title bestowed on the eldest son of the King of France. However, the term also means 'dolphin' in French ― the hands do begin wide and taper towards the end, resembling the shape of a dolphin. 

Appearance of Dauphine Hands

Dauphine hands are a popular type of watch hands, distinguished by their graceful, tapered design, and faceted or polished finish. These hands are triangular in shape, with the broad base tapering to a thin, pointed tip.

GMT India looks at some contemporary luxury watches, whose aesthetic appeal is enhanced by the presence of dauphine hands.

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time STAR BAR Limited Edition

The timepiece is a 9,000-piece limited edition, with a 40.5 mm stainless steel case, lugs, and a crown at 3 o'clock. The watch is 11.8 mm thick and the lugs are 47.5 mm apart. The dial is protected with a Hardlex crystal that mimics the colours of a sunset. Against the fiery tones of the setting sun, the dauphine hands create their magic. 

Inside the case is the traditional Seiko in-house automatic calibre 4R35, which has a 41-hour power reserve. Turning the watch over reveals a sapphire caseback with a gold-coloured oscillating weight. This variant is equipped with a dark brown calfskin leather strap featuring a three-fold clasp.

Price: Rs 54,000 (approx.)

Frederique Constant Classics Monet Moonphase

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This timepiece has a 37 mm steel case, a fluted bezel, and an onion crown at 3 o'clock. The sunray black dial features diamond-shaped hour markers, dauphine, hand-polished hour and minute hands, and a moonphase at 6 o'clock. The moonphase complication is often powered by the watch's main gear train; the mechanism rotates a moonphase disc, adorned with two moon images.

This disc is usually visible through an aperture (window) on the watch dial. The watch is powered by Calibre FC-206, a quartz movement based on Ronda 706. Turning each timepiece over reveals a closed stainless steel caseback. 

Price: Rs 1,00,000 (approx.)

Patek Philippe Calatrava 5227G

Housed in a 39 mm case, crafted in 18 ct white gold, the watch has a black lacquered dial, gold applied hour markers, and dauphine hands, providing excellent legibility and a sophisticated sense of style. There is also a date window at 3 o’clock. Powering the watch is a self-winding mechanical movement, Caliber 26‑330 S C, with a minimum of 35 hours and a maximum of 45 hours of power reserve.

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Price: Rs 36,00,000 (approx.)

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

The 49.4 mm watch's front/primary dial displays only time and has no second hand. The dial features a pink gold surface that has been laser-engraved with horizontal lines spanning its breadth; the Reverso case's rectilinear design emphasises the three horizontal gadroons above and below the dial. The characteristic Reverso Tribute design accents are set against this background; these include trapezoid hour markers, dauphine hands, and a chemin de fer minutes track.

On the redesigned dial, the minute track is accentuated in black. The Reverso Tribute Chronograph is powered by Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 860, which is a fully integrated hand-wound chronograph movement, delivering 52 hours of power reserve.

Price: Rs 64,00,000 (approx.)

Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition

‍The model is contained in a pink gold case, which is 43 mm in diameter and 15.10 mm high. The centre of the case is coated in a honey-coloured enamel to match the dial while the case, the lugs, and the bezel have hand-engraved leaf motifs. The region surrounding the vertical movement is embellished with circular guilloché and honey-coloured Grand Feu enamel.

The pink gold dauphine-style hour and minute hands are accented by a blued steel second hand on the tourbillon at 6 o'clock. The watch is powered by Calibre GP09600-2083, a self-winding movement with a power reserve of 50 hours. When the lid opens, it shows a pink gold motion-work bridge and a marking plate with the word ‘Secret’ inscribed on it.

Price: Rs 4,00,00,000 (approx.)

Jacob & Co. Astronomia Revolution

The black gold model features a single-block sapphire caseband. The base of this 47 mm model is made of black spinel, a rare gemstone composed of hard vitreous magnesium aluminium oxide or magnesium aluminates. The black off-centre dial features black Arabic numerals at 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock, and 9 o'clock, along with red gold dauphine hour and minute hands. A double-axis flying tourbillon, which rotates in 1 minute and 15 seconds, is powered by a kinetic 3-D movement. A translucent dial with a skeletonised design shows the minutes and hours on a second arm. A third arm spins a ruby pointer on itself in 15 seconds and ‘de facto’ displays the seconds as the movement rotates in one minute.

Price: Rs 5,60,00,000 (approx.)

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