Celebrating Excellence: A Round of Applause for the GPHG 2024 Winners!

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, which began its journey in 2001, is undoubtedly the most coveted award ceremony in the world of horology; it has often been called the Oscars of the timepiece industry. This prestigious annual event celebrates outstanding achievements in watchmaking across various categories, including the highly coveted ‘Aiguille d’Or’ Grand Prix. 

Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 2024 was presented by French actor Carole Bouquet, known for her distinguished cinematic career that includes roles in films such as That Obscure Object of Desire and For Your Eyes Only. Her presence added elegance and star power to this famous watchmaking event, underlining the GPHG's cultural and artistic linkages as well as its celebration of horological excellence.

Let us look at the winners this year.

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Challenge: Otsuka Lotec No.6

The No.6 was designed by Jiro Katayama. The hour and minute hands are housed in the lower part of the Japanese-fan-shaped glass (at the bottom of the dial) to reduce the thickness of the watch. The dial is screwed onto the movement to ensure the dial and bezel are aligned at the same height. The edges of the hands and the screw heads of the bezel and dial are carefully beveled. In the assembly of No.6, the retrograde hour and minute hands are placed on the same axis, therefore, the hour and minute hands should return to 0 at the same time when the hands reach 12:00. The return timing difference between the hour and minute hands is controlled to within 60 seconds, and to achieve this, the cam of the hour hand is carefully adjusted with screws. In this way, the angle of the hour hand is precisely adjusted down to 0.1 degrees. This 42.6mm stainless steel watch is powered by a self winding movement with a 40 hour power reserve. 

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“Petite Aiguille”: KUDOKE 3 Salmon

Placed on an attached plate and divided into three sections on the level below the upper dial, the hour is indicated with the help of a triple-armed hour hand - each hand with different lengths running between the two dials . When one arm of the hand reaches the end of the hour scale, the next longer or shorter arm appears at the beginning of the next hour scale. Hours 2, 6 and 10 are then shown twice on different scales before the current handarm moves on. Simple, yet unique. The salmon upper dial with the balancing logo plate matches the hour plate on the silver-plated dial below with its gently curved wave shape. It is mounted on the lower dial together with the minute chapter ring by four screws, which represent the minute indicators 10, 20, 40 and 50 at the same time. Diamond edges on hour plate, logo plate as well as minute chapter rings offer interesting possibilities for playing with light. This 39mm stainless steel watch has a 46 hour power reserve from a manual winding movement.

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Sports: MING 37.09 Bluefin

Instead of using the traditional rotating bezel, we moved this internally onto a Super-LumiNova X1 filled sapphire dial. A sealed crown at 4 o'clock rotates the entire dial via a 60-click, unidirectional mechanism secured by sprung bearings. Most dive watch crowns screw down for water resistance. In the case of the Bluefin, the crown for setting the timing dial at 4 o'clock is designed to be used underwater - it rotates in one direction only, is double gasketed and does not pull out. The red warning indicator on the 2 o'clock crown tube is an easy, visual warning to let a wearer know the crown isn't screwed down. The different coloured infills on the crowns help the wearer differentiate between time-setting and rotating crowns at a glance. This 38mm stainless steel watch is powered by a self winding movement with a 50 hour power reserve.

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Chronograph: Massena Lab Chronograph Monopoussoir Sylvain Pinaud x Massena Lab

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The Chronograph Monopoussoir Sylvain Pinaud x Massena LAB is a monopusher chronograph, crafted almost entirely by hand in the atelier of Sylvain Pinaud in Sainte-Croix, Switzerland. The watch is powered by a hand-wound movement with a fully integrated, column-wheel chronograph with a horizontal clutch, which can be started; paused; and reset using a single pusher located discreetly at the crown. The movement’s integrated chronograph complication, hand-finished by the watchmaker himself, is left exposed on the dial side and is a delight to observe. This 42mm titanium watch has a manual winding movement with a 45 hour power reserve.

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Iconic: Piaget Piaget Polo 79

The motif imparted by a construction of alternating polished gadroon and brushed block links continued seamlessly from bracelet, to case, and even to the dial. Embracing the wrist like a second skin, the bracelet was so skillfully wrought in Piaget’s workshops that it appeared to have been sculpted from a single piece of gold. Piaget Polo 79 returns with a 38mm yellow gold case (Ref. PGG0A49150). In line with current tastes the quartz calibre has been eschewed in favour of the ultra-thin 1200P1 in-house self-winding calibre that can be admired through the crystal back of a case that has been slightly enlarged to 38mm.

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Ladies: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Jour Nuit

Van Cleef & Arpels is reinventing the Lady Arpels Jour Nuit watch (ref. VCARPBLR00), introduced in 2008, with a new model 33-mm in diameter that required three years of development. The diamond-paved moon and stars perpetually pursue the sun, embellished with guilloche yellow gold. Featuring a 24-hour rotating disc, the dial revolves almost imperceptibly. The aventurine glass presents delicate openwork to hold the diamond-set white-gold stars. The painted blue mother-of-pearl shroud symbolises the horizon framing the poetry of space. Decorated using the enamel decal technique, it reveals a protective fairy admiring the winsome ballet of the planets. Powering the watch is a self-winding movement with a 36-hour power reserve.

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Jewellery: Chopard Laguna High-Jewellery Secret Watch

Concealed within the mysterious and protective cocoon of a seashell, this secret watch testifies to the fertile, virtuoso encounter between Chopard’s watchmaking expertise and jewellery tradition. Guided by Co-President and Artistic Director Caroline Scheufele who invites the radiance of vibrant, inspirational, unspoiled Nature into her dreamy universe, the Artisans of the Maison have meticulously recreated a maritime mosaic within this masterpiece. This creation whispers secrets nestled within a seashell held close to the ear, hovering weightless between mythological power and the gentle nostalgia of childhood images woven by fairy tales. This 16mm watch has a quartz movement.

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Ladies Complication: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d'Été

Paying tribute to nature, a source of inspiration for the Maison since its creation, the Lady Arpels Brise d’Été watch celebrates the freshness of a summer morning. This 30mm white gold watch (Ref. VCARPERU00) has a white- and yellow gold butterflies rendered in plique-à-jour enamel that not only tell the time, but flutter off thanks to an on-demand animation module that also breathes life into the flowers and their stems. Created in vallonné enamel, the corollas display azure nuances complemented by spessartite garnet pistils. Against the intensity of matte mother-of-pearl, the dial displays a poetic scene merging the foreground and background to illustrate precious greenery. Powering the watch is a self-winding mechanical movement with a 36 hour power reserve.

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Time Only: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel

With the Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel, H. Moser & Cie. is combining exclusivity, performance and craftsmanship in a single model. Made of steel and measuring 39 mm in diameter, the cushion-shaped case of the Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel model is still water-resistant to 12 ATM. H. Moser & Cie. has chosen a Grand Feu enamel dial, named "Aqua Blue". teel applique indices punctuate the edge of the dial, which features no logo. To display the hours and minutes, the three-dimensional hands made from two sections feature inserts with Globolight®, an innovative ceramic-based material containing Super-LumiNova®. The offset small seconds is displayed at 6 o'clock on a lacquered sub-dial with a circular pattern, offering a beautiful contrast with the base dial. Powering the watch is a self winding mechanical movement with a 74 hour power reserve. 

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Men’s: Voutilainen KV20i Reversed

The Voutilainen KV20i Reversed timepiece perfectly encapsulates Kari Voutilainen’s philosophy, combining respect for longevity and precision with classical watchmaking tradition. Pushing the boundaries of horology, the watch is equipped with a new in-house calibre featuring a unique “back-to-front” construction. In terms of technique, the calibre features a very large balance wheel crafted in-house, allowing a perfect regulation of the watch within strict tolerances. The exterior of the spring has a typical Phillips overcoil, while the internal curve uses the little-known Grossmann curve further increasing accuracy. This 39mm platinum watch (Ref. KV20i) gets a manual winding movement with a 60 hour power reserve.

Men’s Complication: De Bethune DB Kind Of Grande Complication

Representing the quintessence of De Bethune-style Haute Horlogerie, the DB Kind of Grande Complication is a veritable compendium of the core technical and aesthetic attributes that have been invented and built up over 22 years of innovation, research and creativity within the Manufacture. The choice of a reversible double-sided case was entirely natural, since it not only unites a large number of complications, but also provides scope for free-spirited aesthetic expression through the dual display of the various functions. The case incorporates a rotation system (a novel feature introduced in 2021) mounted on floating lugs which – by means of an ingenious micro-mechanism – enable the case to pivot around its central axis in a smooth, accurate swivelling movement. More than 60 components – 50 of which relate to the water-resistant part and are therefore perfectly rustproof are involved in positioning the dial on either side. A cam-operated indexing system ensures perfect alignment of the case with the floating lugs that follow the curves of the wrist. This 43.3mm titanium watch (Ref. DBK2TV2) gets a manual winding movement with a 96 hour power reserve. 

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Calendar & Astronomy: Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver

The 40mm 18ct red gold Classic case has the LAURENT FERRIER signature in each sweep of its pebble-smooth curves. The recognizable and studied shape results from a considered and discreet design evolution, encapsulating a silver dial with intricate hand-finished details. The aesthetic has all the hallmarks of the LAURENT FERRIER design language, with a gently curved bezel and the pleasure of setting the watch using the ball-shaped crown. The watchmaker offers a new interpretation of the classic stylistic codes for which the brand is known. The Classic Moon reveals a sapphire case back that offers an expansive view of the new LF126.02 calibre, accompanied by the Olivette on the case back bezel, at 6 o'clock, making the movement accessible to the watchmaker. The gently curved ball crown winds and sets the date and time. Powering this 40mm red gold watch is a manual winding movement with an 80 hour power reserve.

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Tourbillon: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription

Executed in traditional yellow gold, a metal exclusive to this edition, the case of the Tourbillon Souscription is naturally a double ellipse. To maximise the elegance of the Tourbillon Souscription, it has only a single face on the front, resulting in a case that is a mere 9.2 mm high. The double-ellipse case retains the proportions of the original, but with subtle refinements. The lugs are still carefully soldered by hand to the case middle, but they have been slightly reshaped to create an elegant downward arch, improving the ergonomics of the iconic case. The manual winding movement gives it a 80 hour power reserve.

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Mechanical Exception: Bovet 1822 Recital 28 Prowess 1

The breakthrough was deciding to use rollers instead of a conventional display. Because the dates when the USA and Europe change to Daylight Saving Time are not fixed from year to year, it was impossible to do it in a traditional way. The 24 city rollers are printed on four sides, and the time period roller is printed with the four different periods: UTC, American Summertime (AST), Europe and America Summertime (EAS), and European Wintertime (EWT). When you press the sapphire cabochon on the crown, all 25 rollers turn 90 degrees at the same time and all the cities align with the correct time zone, and for the first time ever, the entire world is correct during Daylight Saving Time. In addition to this unique feature, the Récital 28 Prowess 1 boasts an expanded flying tourbillon, a perpetual calendar with roller-based indications, and an impressive 10-day power reserve from a single barrel.

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Audacity: Berneron Mirage Sienna

The Mirage is the first shaped watch to draw its asymmetry from its calibre, rather than from an external free shape. Drawn to let the mechanics go freely (large barrel, direct small second & pocket watch style balance wheel), the movement escapes from the circle to then offer a combination of finesse and advanced performance. Its total absence of symmetry creates a harmony that is both imperfect and deliberate. With its all-gold construction and special effort devoted to its finesse, it conveys a message of uncompromising elegance and discreet luxury. 100% SWISS MADE, and produced in small numbers (12 pieces per year).

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Chronometry: Bernhard Lederer 3 Times Certified Observatory Chronometer

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One of the standout features of the Central Impulse Chronometer is the movement of the minute hand, which follows the rhythm of the remontoire d’égalité every 10 seconds. The minute hand's movement is displayed on a unique scale divided into 6 steps, each representing 10 seconds, culminating in a full minute. A tiny pointer at the middle of the minute hand guides the reading of these 10-second intervals, perfectly synchronised with the remontoir’s rhythm. Another distinguishing characteristic is the solid silver dial. Using a traditional heating technique, the dial undergoes multiple boiling baths and reheating processes until it achieves its pure white colour, reminiscent of freshly fallen snow. The dial features the iconic "V" symbol, inspired by the meridian sign and the seconds dial showcases the coordinates of the three institutions, reflecting the connection to the legacy of chronometric excellence, crucial for determining longitude at sea. This design is not only a tribute to the precision and reliability inherent in chronometry but also a testament to the savoir-faire and craftsmanship that goes into every Lederer timepiece. Collectors will appreciate the harmonious blend of technical mastery and artisanal excellence, resulting in a watch that transcends the ordinary.

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Eco-Innovation: Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier

 Chopard reaffirms its commitment to the values of Haute Horlogerie promoted by the Fleurier Quality Foundation with a new timepiece certified in accordance with the rigorous specifications of this independent institution. This L.U.C Qualité Fleurier model is the first watch to be awarded this label since Chopard became the sole custodian of the Foundation in 2022. It is also the first in the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier family to be crafted in Lucent Steel™ – Chopard's alloy featuring exclusive properties and produced with a recycling rate of at least 80%. While retaining a 39mm diameter for a thickness of 8.92 millimetres, this unprecedented model has been fitted with a resized crown and lugs, as well as an elegant and functional silver-toned monochrome sector-type dial. Testifying to the finest expertise and innovation cultivated within Chopard Manufacture, its L.U.C 96.09-L movement with chronometer-certified precision is equipped with Chopard Twin technology.

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De L'Aiguille D'Or: IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Eternal Calendar

With the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, IWC Schaffhausen once again pushes the boundaries in fine watchmaking. The company’s first secular perpetual calendar is based on the same synchronized design as the regular perpetual calendar, meaning all its displays can be advanced via a single crown. While the perpetual calendar needs an adjustment in centurial years which are not leap years, the secular perpetual calendar is mechanically programmed to consider these exceptions.Thanks to a newly engineered 400-year gear, which completes just one revolution every four centuries, the calendar will skip three leap years over 400 years – an event that will take place in the year 2100 for the first time. The eternal calendar will calculate the leap year correctly until at least 3999, as no official decision has been taken yet as to whether 4000 will be a leap year. Another highlight of this watch is the eternal moon phase display. IWC’s engineers have taken on the development of a moon phase display with unprecedented precision. After calculating many of more than 22 trillion possible combinations, they devised a reduction gear train comprising three intermediate wheels.