10 Instantly Recognisable Types of Watch Hands Every Collector Should Know

Brands often treat watch dials as a canvas to showcase their artistry and aesthetic prowess; this results in a plethora of tiny details that elevate the dial design. Watch hands are one such detail that can be experimented with to create a visual interest in the dial. 

So, here’s a complete guide to some of the most recognisable types of watch hands that every collector must know about. 

Breguet Hands

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Among the most widely used and recognised watch hands, the Breguet hands were designed by Abraham-Louis Breguet. In 1783, he invented a type of hand, crafted from gold or blued steel. It resembled a hollow apple or a moon from where points had been hollowed out in an eccentric manner. Thanks to their distinctive look, terms like ‘Breguet hands’ and ‘Breguet overcoil’ were soon introduced to the vocabulary of watchmaking.

Rolex ‘Mercedes’ Hand

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Certain Rolex models feature a tiny Mercedes-Benz logo on the tip of the hour hand. This feature made its first appearance on Rolex sports watches during the mid-1950s. Now, this is popularly recognised as a “Mercedes-style” hand. The Mercedes hand can be famously found on the Submariner, and also on other sports watches like the Explorer and the GMT. 

Blued-Steel Sword Hands

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There are a variety of sword-shaped hands, but Cartier’s distinct blued-steel sword hands are among the most popular ones. The sleek shape of the hands has become synonymous with Cartier’s understated elegance. 

Syringe Hands

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This type draws inspiration from hospital syringes. The shape starts out thin and becomes wider, often filled with luminous fluids, and finally ends in a sharp pin-point. These are often seen on Patek Philippe watches. 

Baton Hands

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Baton hands are among the most commonly used watch hands, distinguished by their simple, elongated, rectangular shape. These are often found on dress watches and other pieces with a more traditional design. 

Dauphine Hands

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Dauphine hands refer to the style of tapered hands with a certain depth and faceted relief that results in a glossy look. These hands have been used since the 1930s. 

Leaf-Shaped Hands

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As the name suggests, a leaf-shaped watch hand resembles the curve of a leaf ending in a thin pin-point. Such hands can be spotted on many elegant vintage models. 

Tudor ‘Snowflake’ Hands

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Snowflake hands are found on almost all Tudor watches. It is believed that the French Navy once placed an order for such a unique shape of hands to improve the underwater visibility of divers.

Spade Hands

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The Spade, which resembles the design of the playing card suit, can be found mostly on historic pocket watches and clocks. 

Fleur-de-Lys Hands

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Fleur-de-lys hands are named after the iconic shape of the fleur-de-lis associated with French royalty. This dressy style adds a vintage charm to timepieces and can be spotted on most Czapek timepieces.